If you want us to like each other a year from now, do the right thing and train me properly NOW.
Housetraining Problems Are People Problems Not Dog Problems.
Pointers Before You Start House Training copyright Deborah Owens
HOUSE TRAINING PROBLEMS ARE NOT CAUSED BY DOGS THEY ARE CAUSED BY HUMANS WHO REFUSE TO DO THE RIGHT THING WITH THEIR DOG.
The Three Most Important Tips:
1. The First Stage: Crate him at first, in a cage with the door locked shut. Feed him for 5-10 min., from a metal bowl on a kitchen floor, and, then, immediately put him in the nearby crate. This helps control his "Going" where you cannot see him. Watch him, when he needs to "GO", which should be about 5-15 min. after he has eaten, pick him up and run him outside. The signs that he needs to "GO" are a yelp, a quick turn, or twirling around. As soon as you see the signs that he needs to "GO", run him outside.
2. Keep him off all carpets, and keep him crated, in a locked cage, when he is not in your arms or by your side. Do this until you think he has learned the first part of the rules of house training, which should take two to three weeks. If you are inconsistent then it will take much longer. Even after he has learned this first stage, which is basically understanding that he needs to use the bathroom outside, be sure to crate him immediately after eating, and, then take him out soon after his meal.
After his initial trip outside, take him outside once an hour, until he is well trained. This initial training will take a few months. Soon you will complete the initial house training process.
If he has not learned this basic element, that he needs to use the bathroom outside, within three months, then you, and not he, are doing something wrong.
Dogs that are not house trained are untrained because the human is doing something wrong. You should be able to house train him in a few months if you do not make mistakes which actively thwart his house training.
3. DO NOT EVER PUT THE PUPPY IN A BEDROOM WHERE A HUMAN SLEEPS. The only excpetion to this basic hard and fast rule is you can put him in your bedroom the first few nights he is in your home so that he can begin to adjust to you and his surroundings. Thereafter do not EVER put him in a room where a human sleeps.
AGAIN, after the first few nights in your home move him to a 36" cage that is NOT in a bedroom where a human sleeps. When you put him in a bedroom where a human sleeps you are telling him in dog-pack language that he is now being made the pack leader.
In the dog's social structure the dog leader or pack leader will not allow any other dog in his "den". Your bedroom is equivalent to the leader of the pack's den, in his mind. Incidentally, putting him in any other bedroom in which a human sleeps, like that of a child or another adult in the home, will also signal that he is being moved upwards in the pack hierarchy, and this, too, will ruin his house training.
And, if you take him into the bedroom during the day, ( or night) you have told him in his very own instinctive pack language that he is being made the pack leader. This confuses dogs and they have to find a way to live up to their new position, and they will exhibit their new leadership position through the only method they understand at this early point in their maturation, through urinating out of place.
When you introduce him to a bedroom and let him think he is the pack leader, he will not know the acceptable behavioral cues that he would normally use to exhibit his dominance or leadership of the pack. So, since he has not learned the leadership conduct from other pack leaders, during a slow maturation process, he will exhibit/revert to his instinctive repertoire of behaviors. When they are in a pack they learn leadership behavioral cues and, they understand how those behaviors create domination over the pack, through watching the leader in his interactions with other pack members. However, in your home he has not had a chance to see leadership and dominance behaviors in his elders.
If he had been made a pack leader as a young adult in a pack he would know how to be a leader. But since he does not have that learned behavior as part of his behavioral repertoire he will revert to his instinctive behavior to exhibit dominance when you place him in a room where a human sleeps. He will soon start weeing out of place to display his pack leader role.
When pups resort to their basic instinctive behaviors, and urinate out of place, it is very hard to get them turned around and house trained properly.
His territorial imperative to mark his territory is triggered by YOU placing him in the bedroom.
DO NOT PUT HIM IN A ROOM WHERE A HUMAN SLEEPS.
If you put your puppy in a room where a human sleeps you will create an instinctive behavior in your puppy that is very hard to extinguish.
No Voo Doo Training. Do Proper Training Now For A Long Compatible Relationship With Your Dog!
Love me enough to train me properly so that I can please you.
If you feed him all night what else do you think he might do all night?
Good Schedule for a Pup:
1. 7:00 -8:00 Early Morning Meal
2. Noon Meal, if possible
3. Late Afternoon Meal, 4-5:00, or, even as late as 6:00 if you must do it at that late time. Feed the evening meal as early as possible to prevent nightly mishaps.
You can put him in your bedroom his first few nights in your home to calm him and to let him know that your home is his new home. Thereafter do not ever let him sleep in a bedroom where a human sleeps.
Havanese Dog Information is on this website
Love me and train me so that you will continue to love me and give me a good home.
SCHEDULING IS IMPORTANT
FREE FEEDING AT FIRST, for a few days, or, at most a week. Then go to scheduled feedings.
Take him out hourly during this time and do not get high hopes of complete house training in the first week.
1. When you first get your pup, you will need to feed him from 7:00 AM till 5:00 PM so that he will get enough food. He is accustomed to "free feeding" here. That means he has always had food available. If you put him on a schedule as soon as you get him, he probably will not eat when it is available, (because he will think it will be available all day long), and if he does not eat when it is available, he will be hungry after you remove the food.
He could get low blood sugar, so please be careful not to start him on scheduled feedings too quickly. Free Feed him for the first few days, to a week. Then you can put him on a schedule.
When pups first go to their new home they lose their appetite and this can be a bit tricky. We do not want them to get low blood sugar, as that can be VERY DANGEROUS, so they need a teaspoon of low fat cottage cheese, several times per day, to keep their blood sugar level for the first week. Remember it is very important not to give him too much as he can easily get pancreatitis from the fat in the cottage cheese Please only give him a scant teaspoon of low fat cottage cheese 2-3 times daily for the first week after you get him.
As soon as you put him on a schedule it will be much easier to house train him.
Within a week after you get the pup he will be ready for a scheduled feeding plan and this will greatly enable your house training efforts.
Good Schedule for a Pup:
1. 7:00 -8:00 Early Morning Meal
2. Noon Meal, if possible
3. Late Afternoon Meal, 4-5:00, or, even as late as 6:00 if you must do the last meal at that late time. Feed the evening meal as early as possible to prevent nightly mishaps.
FEED THE PUP FOOD WITH WATER ON IT
2. Feed the pup dry food that has water on it. Wet food will allow you to predict his need to do his business. He will "GO' much more quickly when the food is wet. You can feed adult Beneful Original, with no other food added to it, just add water to it. The bagged dry food is all we use. It has much more of everything he needs. When you see corn listed, please remember, it is not bad for him. It allows his system to work well. In addition, the other brands of dog foods which have very high protein content will cook the liver and kidneys of toy dogs. High protein food is very detrimental to toy dogs, and corn is good for them. Beneful Original (dry kibble, not the canned Beneful food) has a combination that is just right for toy dogs.
Remember we do not use puppy food as it has calcium in it and that can cause bone disease in toy dogs.
Finding the right bag of BENEFUL is important.
The puppy food has "puppy" on it, but, the adult dog food does not have "adult" on it. Be sure to get the bag that DOES NOT HAVE "PUPPY" ON IT. We do not want puppy food as it can cause bone disease in toy dogs.
Please be sure NOT to get reduced calorie food for elderly dogs.
Do not use the canned food, it is inferior, is not produced to the same rigorous standards of production, and has very little meat in it.
Just wet the dry Beneful Original Adult food before feeding it to the puppy.
Add water to the food. Add equal amounts of water and food, or more water than food, and let the food sit for 30 minutes, and, you might stir it prior to feeding.
This dry food that has been wet will make him go to the bathroom more quickly than food without water added to it. He will need to "GO" in about 5-10 minutes after he eats. This wet food mixture will allow you to know when he has to go out. This predictability increases your effectiveness in house training exponentially, especially after you start feeding him on a schedule.
Do NOT be taken in by food commercials and pet store employees and vets who try to sell you their dog food. They stand to make money off of the dog food sales for the lifetime of the dog, and that alone should make you leery of their need to sale you THEIR dog food line.
Do not change dog foods, some puppy dogs will get very, very ill and develop life threatening conditions when their food type is changed. I am NOT overstating this. The pup can develop low blood sugar if his food type is changed, and that is then a possible life altering situation.
DO NOT CHANGE DOG FOOD. Do not give treats the first two weeks, but do give one teaspoon of low fat cottage cheese 2-3 times a day. This will keep his sugar level up to par.
3. How much food do you need to feed him? First rule of thumb is to be sure there is always some food left over after he finishes eating. You can start with 1/4 cup and if that is gone in 10 minutes you need to feed him more the next time.
NEVER limit his intake. This is totally unnecessary, as they will not over eat if they are given plenty of food. Be sure that after you start scheduling his feedings that he always has food leftover at the end of each meal. This assures that you have provided enough food.
DO NOT LISTEN TO A VET WHO TELLS YOU TO LIMIT HIS FOOD INTAKE. It is not necessary with this breed.
I HAVE NEVER HAD AN OVERWEIGHT HAVANESE. THEY WILL NOT OVER EAT IF YOU FREE FEED OR HAVE FOOD LEFTOVER AT THE END OF EACH MEAL. Limiting the amount of food you give them will make them gobble their food. Gobbling food is a sign that you have been STARVING him.
IMPACT OF WALKS to get him to "GO"
4. If you take him on walks you will probably increase the probability that he will play and not do his business. He will likely be very distracted and possibly look at everything with wonder and interest, instead of "Going". His curiosity will direct his main activity, rather than his need to "GO".
HE SHOULD "GO" AT THE SAME PLACE
5. Take him to a designated area each trip outside. He will want to "Go" there.
SCENT ATTRACTS HIM TO THE PLACE
6. So sorry to mention this, but if you want to increase the probability of success, you might place poop in the designated area, so that your pup will have the olfactory cues he needs to do his business there, habitually.
CARPETS WILL INCREASE TIME IT TAKES TO HOUSETRAIN
7. We prefer to keep the dogs off of carpets. If you cannot keep him off of the carpet then please experiment with different products to see which ones work best to clean them. CARPETS THWART HOUSE TRAINING.
The old vinegar solution, half white vinegar and half water, worked for us, but you can decide what will work best for your particular type of carpet. I don't know if vinegar will bleach the color of your carpets, as we used it on white bedroom carpets, years ago when we still had carpets!
REMEMBER, FEBREEZE contains something that harms the dogs. It nearly killed my cocker spaniel.
8. SCENT: He will "GO" anywhere there is a scent from former mistakes. When he uses the bathroom inside the smell that is left behind is an issue. You will want to remove the smell in carpets, or hard surfaces with the available odor remover cleaners, or a homemade 50% vinegar/ water solution. It is very important to remove the scent because, if you do not, he will surely go right back to it to "GO" when you are not watching. The dogs might be able to pick up the scent after the cleaners are used, as their olfactory abilities are very good. Some people have mentioned that they have used the cleaners twice to be sure to remove as much of the scent as possible.
If the dog uses the bathroom on the carpet once he will continue to go to that spot - maybe for his whole lifetime. You cannot house train a dog if he is using the bathroom on the carpets. KEEP HIM OFF THE CARPETS.
GOING IN THE CRATE
9. CRATE: What if he "GOES" in his crate at night. You should expect him to do this for the first few months after you get him.
PLEASE REMEMBER THIS: If he "GOES" in his crate, then the crate tray should be washed before replacing him in it. The scent in the crate will cause him to use the bathroom in the crate over and over again. Clean the tray with a 25% CLOROX solution, or a vinegar water solution or even dishwashing soap and water. Leaving the scent on the tray will make him "GO" on the tray later.
TOWELS & BEDDING IN CRATE
10. Towels: If he wees on a towel it must be removed in the morning or it will train him to "GO" on the towel.
We use hotel towels that we buy at Sam's for their bedding. The Sam's hotel towel package has about 8 towels, for about $20. They are inexpensive, and thin enough to wash up and dry quickly. We wash them with Clorox. As you probably know by now, we recommend that the dogs have their own towels and hamper. And, their towels are generally best washed separately from human towels. We always wash them with Clorox.
There is the old fashioned Clorox and there are many new Clorox Mixtures that are worthless for our purposes:
We clean our crate trays with a spray bottle and a mixture of 25% ORIGINAL Clorox and 75% water. This bleach mixture must be made with the old fashioned Clorox because the newer versions of it do not contain enough bleach to really kill the 1% of serious bacteria that we want to kill. When the bottle of the newer product states that it will kill 99% , etc., remember it is not going to kill the other 1% of bacteria. And, that other 1% of bacteria is the 1% we need to kill. So, always use the old fashioned product if you are trying to kill all of the bacteria and virus.
Many people prefer the less dangerous 50% white vinegar solution to clean trays and we have found that this removes the scent from the tray.
I cannot over stress this fact:
Urine scent in your home will cause your dog to return to the site of the crime and "GO" again.
HALTER & LEASH, NOT COLLAR & LEASH
11. Remember, we do not use a collar, only a halter and leash, because a collar, can and probably will, cause life threatening trachea damage. Trachea damage can cause a tiny crack in the trachea which causes a slow death over a few years. A crack in the trachea can cause a slow progression of breathing troubles, leading to a sure death.
If you are training him on the end of a leash, you will substantially decrease your effectiveness in his house training. Sometimes it is necessary, however we do not suggest using a halter and leash unless you must take him into an unfenced area.
However, if you do not have a fence, you must use a halter and leash, as Havanese have a tendency to run like wildfire at the most unexpected time. Playing chase is one of their favorite activities and they understand that outside is the best place for a high speed chase.
Fences or leashes - One or the Other is an absolute necessity!
He deserves the ability to run without being tethered to you so please get a fence, if it is possible.
Havanese tend to be so submissive that they will consider it their duty to follow you around when on a leash. After you return to the house, your pup may use the bathroom. He may think he has done his job in following you on leash, and after you return home, he may think it is his time then, so he may use the bathroom in the house. Unfortunately, it may be on your favorite carpet.
House training on a leash will work as soon as he catches on to the idea, but it does take a little longer than letting him run free in his own fenced yard! One way to get him used to the halter is to put it on him and leave it on him for several days. He will learn to like it!
Do not walk him on leash for more than about 5 minutes if he is not being productive. If you walk him for 10 min. each hour he will soon be looking forward to his PLAYTIME on leash, rather than going out to do his business.
REWARD "GOING" OUTSIDE
12. Lavish the pup with immediate praise when he does his business in the right place.
One of the red Beneful dry dog food, kibble, will work well as an additional reward. A half of a small animal cracker will also work well. Be very careful not to give him more than a couple of animal crackers a day. He will start to look forward to it when he goes outside, and then he will try to get it as soon as you go out. You can hide it, until the right time. The cheap variety of animal crackers that is available at SAM's is less rich and will be better for the pup than the original and rich ones. Remember, he cannot process fat. Fat that cannot be processed ends up wrapped around all of their internal organs. And, it has been a cause of death in dogs that are only a few years old. Sometimes a calm pup is a sick pup who has been made ill from his owner's method of feeding him.
CORRECT WAY TO CORRECT YOUR PUP
13. There is a right way and a wrong way to correct your pup. Certain types of corrections will not be effective in housetraining.
Corrections that will not help:
a. Rubbing the pup's nose in his business will not be effective in house training.
b. Folded newspapers, and swatting are not necessary in house training, and may even cause the pup not to perform well, and at the proper time. Newspaper swatting will slow down housetraining.
c. Screaming and lectures are not effective.
Proper Corrections Of Your Pup That Will Work:
THE STERN "NO"
14. A stern "NO" in a deep voice is very effective. Stand with your head over his head and say "NO" in a deep and harsh voice. (No need to scream.)
This will create a quick change in your pup.
15. He will learn to go poop outside before he learns to control his bladder.
16. Keep him on a cleanable floor and off all carpets, until he is housetrained.
17. When he is with you on a carpet, do not take your eyes off of him, until he is housetrained. Please remember each time he makes a mistake and "GOES" on the carpet he will leave a scent and increase the likelihood that he will repeat the performance.
CRATE AT NIGHT &
WHEN YOU ARE NOT WATCHING HIM
18. Let him sleep in a locked crate at night. Put him to bed in the crate right after taking him out for the last time, say at about 9-10:00 PM. The last trip outside is the one time he should not have water. He also should not have water in his crate at night. Change his bedding if it is soiled. Use towels as bedding until he is house trained. Don't use towels with holes in them because they may get caught on his legs, and they can even cause amputation.
19. If he wees on a carpet you may not notice it, as pups do not have a strong smell. But, he will know it is there, as his sense of smell is far better than that of humans. He will continue to go back to a spot with urine on it. Be mindful of this, please.
20. If other dogs have used the bathroom on your rugs, that will drastically impact his desire to use the bathroom on those spots. For best results, clean or remove soiled rugs. If he keeps going back to those spots after the rug is cleaned, and if all else fails, do not let him on the rugs until he is housetrained.
Neutering male dogs prior to 6 months prevents them from ever learning to lift their leg. They will go to the bathroom like a female all of their lives if they are neutered prior to 6 months.
And, by the way, pups should never be neutered prior to 5.5 months of age.
They will not mark territory after they are neutered. In older unneutered dogs the neutering will remove the production of hormones, but some of the hormones will still remain in their body for a few months. When the hormones disappear males will stop marking territory.
URINATON IS A NEED TO USE THE BATHROOM.
SPRAYING & MARKING IS A MALE DOG MARKING TERRITORY WITH URINE SPRAY, OR USING IT WHEN THEY DO NOT HAVE TO "GO".
SPRAYING or Unnecessary weeing is Hormonally induced urination when there is no real physiological need to urinate, other than their instinctive drive to place a scent mark on a territory to establish dominance.
The scent mark is meant to ward off other males, and signal that a male has a particular territory. Males are hard wired for this and at a certain stage of maturation this behavior will appear without training from others in the pack. In other words, it is instinctive and not learned. Learned behavior, or modeling of other dogs spraying, may increase the probability and number of incidences.
Triggers of other male urine will increase the probability as well.
Lifting the leg: Males learn to lift their leg for urination at about 6-8 months of age, or at about the age of sexual maturity. Once they learn to lift their leg, they will continue to lift it all of their life, usually. If they are neutered right after it starts they may stop if neutered ASAP.
However, EVEN if they are unneutered, and EVEN if they know how to spray or mark their territory, they will stop marking territory if they are neutered. It will take a while for the male hormones to leave their body after the neuter, but most people see a difference within a couple of months after the neutering.
Lifting of the leg is done by:
1. All unneutered males which are past the age of sexual maturity 2. All neutered males who were neutered after sexual maturity
Spraying is done by:
1. Intact Males which are past the age of sexual maturity
2. Neutered males who were neutered after sexual maturity, but they will spray only for a short while and only until the hormones leave their body.
In other words, if you neuter a male at 4 years of age, (or any age after he has learned to lift his leg) he will always urinate by lifting his leg. But, remember, if he has been spraying, (marking territory) and then he is neutered, he will stop spraying (marking territory) after the hormones leave his body. It may take a few months for older dogs to stop spraying after their neuter because the male hormones will still be circulating in the male body for that long. So, older males that are actively marking territory will stop that unnecessary SPRAYING soon after they are neutered, (A FEW MONTHS), however, they will probably still lift their leg to "Go", when they have to urinate for their entire life.
Here is a schedule that you can use to start house training your pup.
1. Wake Up Call: 6- 7:00 AM---quick trip to litter tray or outside
2. Moistened Food presented to pup for 5-10 minutes. Crate him.
3. Trip to litter tray or outside--- and, repeat every hour. Crate him.
4. Between 4:00-5:00, (if you must 6:00) dinner---food available for 10- 30 min.
5. Trip to litter tray or outside every hour till bedtime
6. Do not take pup out late at night--even if you must clean up in the morning as it sets a bad precedent, and then you will be doing it for years---and, you need your sleep.
7. 10:00 PM --- Bedtime. Do not keep him up late so you can sleep in he is not a nocturnal animal and that will upset his internal clock and thwart house training. The happiest animals live by their internal clock and not an artificial nocturnal schedule.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember, take him out immediately or put him in the crate after he has eaten, but only for 5 - 10 min. Watch him and take him out when he shows signals that he has to "GO", like a quick turn, spinning around, or yelping.
CRATE HIM AND EXPECT MISTAKES.
HOUSE TRAINING PROBLEMS ARE PEOPLE PROBLEMS NOT DOG PROBLEMS.
A Lady Bragged: "My dog will wait 12 hrs., till I get home to go." Guess what killed her dog? Infections.
We Do Not Use Litter Trays, But If You Live in A High Rise It May Be Your Best Alternative.
Dogs Must Be Trained To Use Litter Trays, They Do Not Automatically Use Them Like Cats.
DO NOT USE RABBIT LITTER IT MAY HAVE BACTERIA OR HORMONES THAT ARE HARMFUL AND CAUSE LIVER DAMAGE.
I am at your mercy. Please train me properly.
FLEA MEDS ARE VERY STRONG VETS ARE OVERDOSING
AND POISONING DOGS WITH FLEA MEDS
DO NOT ALLOW YOUR PET TO BE POISONED
We know of situations in which small toy dogs have been given multiple flea meds simultaneously. The strongest flea meds are the vials that are placed on the back of the dog. The instructions indicate that the entire vial should be placed on the dog's back. The vial is a systemic product meaning it stays in the body for a long period of time, and, it continues to poison the fleas and ticks, (and, dog). Some of the products are so strong that they last for 3 months. Can you imagine the level of toxicity they must have in them!
Some vials kill heartworms, fleas and ticks.
Vets make a lot of money from these medications.
Some vets have been known to administer multiple types of flea meds along with the vials. The vial, alone, is too strong for toy dogs, and, the vials can cause a multitude of serious health problems in toy dogs, but, vets are still using them, despite the EPA warning to stop using them on toy animals.
We know of cases in which vets have given the vial, and a pill that does the exact same thing simultaneously. Worse yet, we know of many, many cases in which vets have given the vial, a pill that does the same thing as the vial, and a spray with pyrethrums, and, a flea shampoo with pyrethrins. Now, that is crazy.
The owners did not notice what the vet was giving the dog. They blindly entrusted their dog to the malicious malpractice of an unscrupulous vet.
Of course, just the systemic vial, alone, will sometimes cause convulsions, nervousness, and neurologic damage. But, the vets often go even further and add on a multitude of unneeded chemicals to a tiny dog's body.
These over dosing cases and all cases in which vets ignore the EPA warning not to use the systemics on toy dogs are CASES OF POISONING THE DOGS.
The dogs developed neurologic disorders, often a shaking disease, skin issues, and, many years of skin problems with complications from the steroid treatments that were used for the skin problems. Many of the dogs' hair fell out. Some of the dogs developed disease from the steroid meds given to treat the skin problems.
Vets can collect thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of treatments for the problems created by such poisoning of toy dogs. In most cases the owners had no idea what was going on with their animal, and, some of the wealthier owners subjected their dogs to many months of testing through many specialist vets, none of whom told the owners that the overmedication from the unscrupulous vet created the neurologic problems and the skin problems.
We have numerous cases of such VET POISONINGS. The poor unsuspecting and trusting little dogs and their owners were at the mercy of those unscrupulous vets.
Please pay attention to the meds the vet gives your dog. Do not allow an unscrupulous vet to make your dog sick and then collect money from the illness he induces in your precious pet.
DO NOT LET IT HAPPEN TO YOUR DOG. PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOUR VET IS DOING TO THE DOG. Be a good owner, and watch out for your dog.